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Complete Treatise on the Fabrication of Beer and on the
Distillation of Grains, Potatoes, Beets, Jerusalem Artichokes, Etc.

par G. La Cambre

Book 1

On the Fabrication of Beer

Part One.

Raw materials and the general fabrication of beer.

Chapter 1.

The origin, importance, definition, and general nature of
beer.

Art. 1 — Origin and importance of the production of beer.

—

Origin.

The production of beer dates back to
very ancient times; an origin that merges into the fabulous history of Ceres
and Osiris; or in other words, which is lost to the sands of time.  The ancients, it seems, employed only cereals
to make this kind of drink; and the Romans gave to us the apt name of cerevisiae,
which seems to derive from Ceres, the goddess of agriculture, who also gave her
name to cereal.

The most famous drink of this type in antiquity was Pelusian beer, which took its name from Pelusium,
a city situated at the mouth of the Nile, where it was produced. Aristotle
speaks of the intoxication caused by beer, and Theophrastus aptly names it
barley wine. One can also conclude from the accounts of some historians that
some drinks analogous to the beers of our day were very widespread among the Gauls, the Germans, and nearly all the people of our
temperate zone, and that for many centuries they were always the most popular
beverage in the countries where wine was not an abundant agricultural product.

Importance.

Whatever the origin of this drink, in our day, the usage of
beer is extremely widespread: in England, Belgium, and Germany, enormous
quantities are produced; and one can say without exaggeration that in these
countries brewing holds one of the larges places in agricultural production. Thus,
the production of beer interests to the highest degree all the populations of
northern Europe for whom it is a staple consumable. It is calculated that
solely in the city of London, 300 million liters are produced annually; and in
Belgium which has no more than four million inhabitants and which exports very
little beer, more than 900 million liters are produced each year, making for an
annual per capita consumption of 200 liters; and the pattern is much the same throughout
northern Germany. To wit, nearly all the countries of Europe produce and
consume on a large scale this type of drink, which, as has been said by
numerous authors, is quite healthy, refreshing, and nutritious at the same time,
as we will see later[1].

Art. 2. — General Nature of Beer and definitions

Beer is an alcoholic drink, generally containing extractive
materials of varying sweetness, aromatic materials of varying bitterness, and
diverse salts and free acids, in highly variable proportions.

Up to the present day, the process for producing beer,
followed generally in all countries, can be summed up as macerating or infusing
ground or crushed, fully or partially germinated cereal grains in water, and to
combine the concoction with hops or with a bitter aromatic extract which almost
always came, if not exclusively, at least for the most part, from them.  It is thus only beverages produced from the
extract of cereal grains and of hops that are and have been generally
understood as falling under the name of beer; except that, for some years, as
we will see later, primarily in France, large proportions of sugars are
employed; some brewers even having come to substitute for cereal grains
starches or starch syrups[2].
I myself was charged some years ago with organizing a
small brewery to make beer with potato starch, and I will describe it in due
course.  After this, to speak in a
completely general manner, we must understand today, as it is commonly
understood in France, under the name of beer, all fermented drinks which are
prepared from a concoction of hops in a more or less sugary
liquid.

Thus, among the different fermented alcoholic beverages, the
principal distinctive characteristic and the most prominent of those we are
discussing is the presence of aromatic and bitter hop extracts. But in certain
countries, as we will see later, other aromatic and bitter extracts which, to a
degree, contribute the same characteristics and can
therefore be considered equivalents, are substituted for the hops. In some
countries, different alcoholic beverages are prepared which do not contain any
hops nor any particular bitter or aromatic extracts; however,
these decoctions of pure and fermented grain should assuredly be considered beers.

From this, we see that it is difficult to draw a clear line
of demarcation between beer, wine, and other types of fermented beverages.  Allthesame, after
these initial observations, I think that it will always be easy to the general public, and especially to legislators, to give to
these beverages a definition precise enough to permit no point of confusion
with the other alcoholic beverages.

Chapter 2.

Raw materials used for the manufacture of beer, that may
be employed with advantage in certain circumstances.

Division of this Chapter.

Considered in a general manner, the raw materials of beer are
of two types: the ones which furnish the gummy and more-or-less sugary extracts
which, through fermentation, give the beer alcohol and residual extract: these
are the starchy, gummy, or sugary ingredients; the others yield give a
more-or-less bitter flavor and a particular aroma, the essential elements of
which are mainly intended for their conservation: these are the aromatic and
bitter principles. I established a third class of raw
ingredients, of entirely secondary importance, since they are not part
of the essential ingredients of beer and they are included only in small numbers
and varieties; but they also naturally find there place in this chapter. I am
referring to the mineral and animal ingredients which enter incidentally in the production of certain beers.  Finally, the ingredients which serve to color
certain beers, as well as the water and the yeast, could also have been
classified in this chapter; but for many reasons, which are too long to explain
here, I thought it more useful and appropriate to treat these ingredients as we
discuss their general applications. We divide the chapter into three sections:
in the first, we examine the starchy and sugary ingredients; in the second, we
review the ingredients intended for the conservation of beer; in the third, we discuss
the different mineral and animal ingredients that are used incidentally in the
preparation of certain beers.

SECTION ONE.

Starchy and sugary ingredients employed in the production
of beer

These raw ingredients are themselves divided into two
distinct types, which are: first, the starchy, often more-or-less sugary
ingredients which must undergo chemical reactions in the mash; second, the
sugary and gummy, but not starchy, ingredients which do not require this process.

Art. 1. — Starchy Ingredients

The starchy ingredients which can serve in the production of
beer are very numerous, such that one can say in a general sense that all
plants which contain a notable quantity of starch could be used; but I will
limit myself to treating the ingredients generally employed, or which on
occasion can be employed to some advantage in certain locations. These
materials comprise almost the entire class of cereals and legumes, namely
(following their degree of importance in the production of beer): barley,
wheat, spelt, rye, oats, buckwheat, corn (maize), beans, favabeans,
and beans, then potatoes and starchy vegetables.

Barley

Barley, being the most important raw material in this
product, since it serves as the base for the malt
which is the base in nearly all countries at least on our continent, warrants
our particular attention.

Of all the cereals that we cultivate, barley is the oldest
known. Since the most remote times, it has served as food for people and for
domestic animals. The Dutch and the Danes made bread for their sailors from
barley and rye flour, which they believed protected them from scurvy.  The English used it in the preparation of the
liquor which they name whisky, and in nearly all the countries where
beer and grain spirits are made, it serves exclusively or partially in the
preparation of these drinks.

Many varieties of barley are cultivated, all of which are more or less appropriate for the preparation of beer.  But generally
preference is given to ordinary smooth-skinned winter barley, called hordeum
nudum [hordeum vulgare var. nudum], or the large Northern
barley (hordeum disticum), which is the most
common varietal in Northern Europe; however the first of these is only a
variant.

For certain beers, small summer barley, with fine skin and
pale color (hordeum vulgare aestivum) is used, as well as the six-row
barley variety called escourgeon (hordeum vulgare de  Linné). These two
last types or varieties of barley are less advantageous than the first for
their performance in beer but their prices are
ordinarily lower; and they have the advantage of growing better in summer than
other species.

Chapter 3. Malting or the fabrication of malt.

Chapter 4. The mashing of grains.

Chapter 5. Brewing or macerating grains.

Chapter 6. The boiling of beers

Chapter 7. Chilling of wort and different types of chillers.

Chapter 8. The fermentation of wort.

Chapter 9. The [appret] of beer and clarification.

Chapter 10. The maturing of beer, LEURS ALTÉRATIONS ET MOYENS DE LES
PRÉVENIR ET DE LES CORRIGER.

Chapter 11. DU NETTOYAGE ET DE L'ENTRETIEN DES DIFFÉRENTS VAISSEAUX , APPAREILS ET USTENSILES DES BRASSERIES.

Part Two.

—

Description of the principal processes utilized in the
countries most known for producing beer.

General Classification of Beers and the division of this second part

As I laid out in the preface, I propose, in this large
section, to treat in a detailed manner the principal
types of beer.  I will describe to begin
with their nature, and I will give, wherever possible, their composition. After
which I will indicate the particular processes by
which one can obtain them. But before that, I think it is useful to set out in
summary the general classification that I have adopted, both to facilitate the
understanding of the entire work and to simplify this work and avoid unneeded
and tedious repetition.

As we have already seen, beer is an alcoholic beverage
comprising gummy and sugary ingredients, aromatic and bitter ingredients, along
with various salts and free acids, in widely varying proportions. Among the
most important elements of this beverage are without doubt: alcohol, the
extractive materials which come from floury or sugary substances, and the
components of hops which comprise nearly the entirety of what we commonly call
the _extract_ of beer. As the quantities of alcohol and extract are highly variable
across the different types of beer, and their proportions and ratios will serve
to characterize and distinguish a fairly large number of types and varieties
that have much in common with each other, I think it necessary, before
describing the preparation of each of these in particular, to indicate here the
average quantity of alcohol and extract contained in the principal types of
beers which I will maintain for the reader.

[Table of quantities of alcohol and extract contained in the
principal types of beers.]

From this table, one can see not only the great variation in
alcohol and extract contained in the different sorts and qualities of beer, but
also (and this is what I propose to remark on in particular
here) the important variations that exist in the ratios of these two
elements so essential to these beverages.

Thus, while the ratio of the quantity of alcohol to the
quantity of extract contained in London Export Ale, when it is newly brewed, is
from 7 to 6½ (much greater than 1), it is only about ½ for Bavarian beers, and
only ⅓ for Double Beer from Diest when it is fresh, that is brewed
between eight and fifteen days.  Thus,
quite often the distinctive characteristics of a type of beer depend less on
the amount of alcohol and extract as on the ratio of these elements and the
nature of the extractive materials.  In
effect, for the same types of beers, as we see in the table, there are
generally some very significant variations in their absolute quantities, while
for the same types or varieties, the ratio of the quantity of alcohol to the
quantity of extract they contain in their normal state varies little. And if
they vary much with the age of the beer, as is the case for a
large number of types which change considerably in nature with
maturation, each variant of a type behaves in substantially the same manner in
the same circumstances. Thus, for example, Louvain, Peeterman,
and Diest Beer which vary notably in strength, always have, however, the
same taste, the same aroma, and the same fatty or unctuous and slightly opaque
aspect which distinguish them from other beers. If made with the same first
ingredients normally employed for their preparation, the two elements are found
in the appropriate ratio. Whereas, all things being
equal, if these ratios depart from the ordinary limits of these types of beers
while they are in their normal states, that is, if the quantity of extract is
not large enough in ratio to that of alcohol, these beers are moving away from
the genuine type in question. To a more or less noticeable
degree it is the same for all beers, but more particularly for beers prepared
with large proportions of wheat, which, in their normal state, contain by
weight more extract than alcohol, whereas for most beers made with pure and
sprouted barley, the proportions of these two essential elements commonly in
balance or nearly so.

If the proportions of alcohol and extract, and overall the
ration that exists between these proportions, have a large influence on the
distinctive characteristics of a type of beer, the nature of the ingredients
that constitute the extract which it contains has — without doubt — an
influence no less great; for the extract, it is said, is the body of the beer,
containing always a certain number of diverse essences which often differ
greatly in their proportions and their natures, which renders the taste and the
composition of the beers very different, following the primary ingredients
employed to prepare them: and this is easily understood.

Classification of Beers. — Some authors have
classified beers according to their color, some according to their strength,
and others according to their origins; but these classifications cannot teach
us anything. Following what I just said, I believe that it is much more reasonable
to classify them according to their nature, taking the raw ingredients from
which they are made as the basis; this will facilitate, without doubt, their
study, and will permit me to shorten a great many details in the descriptions
of the diverse processes used in the preparation of each type of beer that I
will have to provide for the reader.

There are, in a sense, infinite varieties of beer, and it
can be said in a general manner that each country, each province, even each
locality has its own particular species of beer; but a lot of these varieties
differ only by often imperceptible or barely perceptible nuances, and can be
reported as the same type or same species; thus I commit myself to describe the
principal varieties. I will divide the different sorts of beers into three
large categories: the first containing the different types of beers prepared
only with barley malt, that is, in the composition of which there are no
appreciable amounts of grains other than barley malt. I will consequently
designate this first class or category under the name — also supported by usage
— of barley beer. I will give to the second category the equally
significant name of wheat-brewed beers, including in this second class
all beers into the preparation of which wheat, oats, rye, or buckwheat enter in
appreciable quantities. Finally, in the third category, I will gather all the
different types of beers which are prepared or can be advantageously prepared
with corn (maize), rice, starch, potatoes, beets, and other roots.

First Category.

—

Barley Beers.

The majority of beers in this large
class, which is without doubt the most important in Germany, France, and most
of all England, where they brew hardly any others, could be prepared in much
the same manner without causing significant changes to their natures.  But as is so often the case, each locality
holds that its particular type of beer cannot be obtained properly except by
following the processes which they use, and as the production processes vary
frequently and must necessarily vary in accordance with the various laws
regulating this industry in the various countries, I believe it necessary to
treat the preparation of each type of beer in particular, in order by origin as
indicated by the table of contents. This approach will simplify the description
of the different methods and processes put in use, along with the observations
I have made on the subject of the laws which regulate
this industry in the different countries which warrant special mention.

Chapter 1.

English Beer.

The quantities of beer brewed in England can be truly
fabulous.  The city of London alone
produces nearly 4,000,000 hectoliters annually. It is true that the majority of English export beers are brewed in the
capital which, already celebrated with other titles, adds to its glory with its
immense universally renowned breweries.

I cannot stop myself from giving a description here of these
colossal factories, all the more so because in the
plates and their descriptive legends, I indicate the general dispositions of
the most important London breweries, and I give the plans, cuts, and elevations
of two of England's most remarkable breweries, if not by their proportions, at
least by their arrangements. I will limit myself here to saying that all the
great English breweries, in general, are arranged in a manner that the boilers
dominate the mash tuns, the latter being placed immediately above the [tanks]
so that the first vessel can be emptied completely into the mash tun and the
hop bin which is usually placed at the same height or at a level slightly lower
than the mash tuns. From the hop bin, the wort is elevated to the cooling
tanks, generally placed on the higher floors of other buildings, at the lower
floors of which are the fermentation tanks and other fermentation equipment.
(For more details on the layout of these breweries, see pl. V, fig. 2, and the
descriptive legend.) This being said to facilitate the
understanding of the typical fabrication processes in England which I am going
to describe.

Among the numerous varieties of beer brewed in England, the
most well known are ale and porter. I will begin with
and focus especially on these two types of beer, starting with ale which the most delicate and  perfect beer that we have known.

Ales.

In England, several remarkable varieties of ale are brewed
that I will examine in turn, beginning with London Export Ale which I
hold to be the most important if not for all of England then at least for her
capitol; then I will describe the production of Preston or Scotch Ale
which is also highly esteemed in this country; after which I will describe the
production of London Ordinary Ale, of Porter, and of Amber
Beer, which are sometimes produced from the same batch.

London Export Ale.

For the preparation of this beer, which I consider the
epitome of barley beers, one cannot pay too much
attention to observing all the principles of a well-reasoned manufacture, which
I have set out in the first part of this treatise. Indeed, to brew this kind of
beer, one is not subject to routine recipes in many cases led by the habit of a
particular taste specific to some of these kinds of drinks. But the finest pale
malt and the finest hops, the newest and best preserved available, must be
used.

I will indicate the appropriate proportions of these
ingredients, then the detailed order of operations according to the practice in
London, to obtain this type of ale. But I must observe to begin with that to
have success in this type of beer, one ought, like most English breweries, to
avoid brewing in the very hot and very cold months.  The months of February and March are the most
favorable, as for all other Stock or Keeping Beers.

In consequence, I would not have thought it necessary to
make this particular observation if the most renowned brewers in England did
not attach great importance to not brewing this kind of beer except under the
temperature conditions I have just mentioned, and we will see that it is the
same in Bavaria for the preparation of bock and salvator,
which are also excellent beers.

In London, when brewing Export Ale, one always makes two
types of beer from the same batch and, commonly, the first two [tempers] make
up the ale wort. The [marche] generally followed to
prepare this beer and that I have seen practiced in some large breweries of the
capital is summarized below.

First, just enough water necessary to cover the false bottom
is introduced to the mash tun, then the appropriate amount of well modified
pale malt, well crushed by cylinders, is added to the grain bin. In England,
the degree of germination generally desired, especially for the preparation of
ale, is quite high: the rootlet commonly reaching three fourths the length of
the grain, and the barley thus sprouted must be very friable. When the malt is
passed to the grain bin, nearly all the kernels of the grains must be reduced
to flour when lightly pressed between one's fingers and the husks of the grain
must remain in one or two pieces. Regarding the amount of grist in the mash
tun, it must not be too large; it must be possible to process the batch easily.  Neither should one make a small batch in too
large a container because the material will cool too quickly, the wort will not filter well, and the stirring will be
incomplete.  This said, let's get back to
the operation.

As soon as the grist is added, appropriate for the capacity
of the mash tun, water is added through the false bottom, sufficient for the
wetting [débattage] and infusion of the material. The
temperature of the first water added before the malt in the mash tun is from 65
to 66 degrees centigrade (150° to 152°F), but ordinarily it is not higher than
56 when the grist is added. The temperature of the second quantity of water is
also from 65 to 66 degrees centigrade. Immediately after this new addition of
water, the batch is mechanically stirred just until mixing is complete, after
which the mixture is allowed to rest a moment, during
or after which a new addition of water a bit closer to boiling, often around 90
degrees centigrade, is added. During and after this addition of water, the mash
is stirred again for 20 to 25 minutes, after which the mash left
to rest for about two hours, taking care to cover the material tank either with
a specially made lid or with curtains surrounding the tank and the flour hopper
which is often placed immediately above it. After this rest, the infusion or first runnings is flowed into a
holding tank called an "under back" from which the wort is afterwards
pumped into one of the boil kettles, under which the fire is lit as soon as it
has received a sufficient amount of liquid. The first
liquid drained from the mash tun is generally collected in a small container
and, if it is cloudy, added back into the mash tun because it is important that
the wort transferred to the kettle be very clear.

As soon as the first infusion is drained, another quantity
of water at 90 degrees centigrade, this constituting the second infusion, and
once this new addition of water is complete, the mash rakes are started, and
the mash is stirred for about a quarter of an hour, after which the mash rests
for half an hour, then is stirred again for ten minutes, and after having
rested again for three quarters of an hour to an hour, the second infusion,
which constitutes the second runnings, is drained,
and serves commonly to complete the boil destined to produce the ale.  Once the second infusion is added to the
first, the hops are added to the boil kettle and
boiled [en vase clos] for about two hours. Some
brewers add hops to the boil as soon as the first runnings
are added. This is not a problem here, since in the case in question the
saccharification of the starch dissolved by maceration in the mash tun is fairly advanced and should not be continued in the boiler.

During the boiling of the first wort, a third infusion is
made following the same manner just described for the second, except that the
mash is ordinarily stirred only once and rests only an hour to an hour and a
quarter in total.  And once that infusion
is completely drained, a fourth is added with hot water that is added over the
top of a metal plate or board riddled with holes onto the largely expended
grist.  In some breweries, once this last
infusion is added, a centrifuge is used which turns itself once the water is
added; in this manner the grist is completely extracted and the final liquid
which leaves the mash tun does not ordinarily exceed one degree or even a
half-degree Baumé.

When the boil of the first kettle is finished, the wort is left to rest, having extinguished the fire, or
closed the steam valve if the kettle is heated by this means as is practiced
for ale in some London breweries. After a quarter to a half-hour rest, the wort
is transferred to the filtration tank, or hop tank, and the wort from the last
two infusions is transferred to the boil kettle; this wort will serve to
prepare a second quality of beer, called table beer (bière
de table).

Gradually and in measure with the rate of filtration of the wort from the first boil in the hop tank, the wort is pumped
into the chilling tanks, after which the hop residue is returned to the boil
kettle with the last two runnings, to which is added
a small quantity of second quality hops, and boiled
for four hours.

Once the wort from the first boil is adequately cooled, that
is after it marks no more than 14 to 18 degrees centigrade according to the
exterior temperature, the wort is transferred to the working tun [cuve guilloire] with the least
stirring possible, and once the whole quantity is collected into one or more
fermenters, the yeast is added, having been previously primed with a bit of the
same wort until it is already lukewarm.
Then the whole is mixed well and left to
ferment slowly. After 36 to 48 hours, a foam of mixed yeast forms on the
surface of the liquid.  If one judges
that the fermentation is proceeding too quickly, the foam cap is removed and
hold water is circulated through serpentine piping placed in the fermenter; if,
on the contrary, the fermentation is not active enough, the surface of the
liquid is agitated to reincorporate the floating yeast. This is repeated after
10 or 12 hours if the fermentation is still not energetic enough.  The fourth or fifth day, when the
fermentation has reached it peak of activity, that is
when the temperature is no longer rising and the wort has dropped 5 to 6
degrees Baumé in density, it is transferred to fermenters of 3 to 6 barrel
capacity, called [stillions] or clarifying tanks due
to their primary function of clarifying the beer, that is the removal of the
yeast. To this effect, they are kept constantly full, and the yeast, gradually
and as it is formed, overflows out of an opening called the man-hole
and falls into tanks leading to the reservoir.
To understand the details of this operation, see pl. IV,
_fig._ 9 and 10, and its legend.

This transferring and division of the wort
in fermentation has in additional goal of moderating the fermentation which
slows down at first, then resumes its course, but it is never as vigorous as in
the [cuve guilloire], and
this is why some brewers have given it the name [fermentation lente des cuves d'épuration]. When the
fermentation is entirely complete, that is when the beer has cleared and has no
more foam on the surface, it is carefully drawn off, by means of pumps, to
discharge into large maturation tanks in the vast, cool cellars and, as much as
possible, to shelter it from any shaking of the ground.

In some breweries, when the weather is not cold, the
temperature of the beer is lowered to 8 to 10 degrees centigrade before being
pumped to the maturation vats by passing the beer through a water chiller
gradually as it leaves the clarifying tanks.
This method is assuredly very good, for it contributes strongly to the
conservation of the beer by retarding the secondary fermentation, or by slowing
and prolonging the tertiary fermentation.

In these stock beers, some brewers put a little table salt
as well as some other ingredients; but the greatest number of them make no use
of these; at least, so they assured me.

In this general description of the production of ale, I have
not indicated the quantities of malt, hops, yeast, or any other ingredients
employed by most breweries, because all these can be better specified by some
examples.  This is why I will give the
composition of a brew of this type which I observed being made in 1837.

Batch of ale and table beer made in March 1937, at an
exterior temperature of 3 to 5 degrees centigrade.

Pale Malt, First
Quality . . . . 176 quintiles, or kg . . . . . 8940.0

Kent Hops,
First Quality . . . . 480 English pounds . . . . . .
217.5

Grains of
Paradise, ground . . . 6      "      "
. . . . . . 2.72

Grains of Coriander  . . . . . .
4      "      "
. . . . . . 1.81

Table Salt . .
. . . . . . . . . 4      "      "
. . . . . . 1.81

Producing: 100 barrels of Export Ale from the wort marking 12 degrees Baumé; and 80 barrels of Table Beer,
biere de table. All the hops being
placed in the first boil and only their residue employed in the preparation of
the second boil. The must of which, at the start of fermentation measuring
1.038 on the densimeter, which is 6¼ degrees Baumé. The ingredients were employed
only for the ale and placed in the fermentation tank on the second day of
fermentation.

The ale rested for four days in the fermentation tank and
five days in the clarifying tank; its temperature when transferred to the tank
was 58°F or 15 degrees centigrade, rising the fourth day to 75°F, that is about
24 degrees centigrade

Chapter 2.

French Beer.

The fabrication of beer in France has, proportional to
population, a much lesser importance than in England, principally because the
first country produces wine in such abundance that, in many locations, wine is
ordinarily cheaper than beer; however, this refreshing drink is much sought-after
there, especially in summer.

For some years, this industry expanded greatly in France,
and in the principal cities of the east and north of the country, it
constitutes a very important manufacturing sector. This industry has also
penetrated the center and the middle of France, to Lyon, Clermont, Limoges,
Toulouse, Bordeaux, Marseille, such that most populous cities in France now
have breweries, whose number and importance increase every year, especially
since the vines have been sick.

In France, as in England, beers are generally brewed solely
with barley malt.  For some years,
however, in Paris especially, a lot of adjunct sugars have been used,
particularly glucoses or starch syrups prepared with sulfuric acid.  These potato-starch syrups, when of good
quality, are quite proper for the production of white
beers because they have little color and a lot of dextrin which gives beers
containing them a good head.  The head on
these beers holds well: they are thick, compact, and do not dissipate like
those of champagne or sparkling water, which consumers look for in this
beverage.

Also, in many cases, for the production of
white beers particularly, I advise the employment of
these ingredients, moreover, because their price offers pecuniary advantage to
brewers.  However, I must observe that
one cannot use large proportions of these without impacting the flavor of the
beer which must always bear the characteristic flavor of these syrups.  This flavor, when it is not too strong, is
not at all inherently disagreeable.  Nevertheless,
it is often an insurmountable obstacle to employ these syrups in certain
locations because the consumers demand a beer with consistent flavor and aroma,
but this is not generally an issue in the south and west of France where beer
is in some ways a luxury drink.

The best known and most highly regarded beers of those made
in France are those of Lille, Strasbourg, Lyon, and the white beers of
Paris.  I will therefore make known the
principal types of beers brewed in each of these four
cities and describe the procedures by which they are obtained.  We classify each type of beer under the name
of the city where it is made, but we can divide all these beers into three principal
classes: the first being called _double beer_ or _strong beer_; the second
_small beer_ or _table beer_, these two types constituting brown and amber
beers; and finally, the third comprising _white beer_ which are not widely made
outside of Paris where all three classes of beer are made.  And for this reason, I will commence by
describing the beers and procedures used in Paris, even though the beers of
Lille and Strasbourg are more important and more renowned than those of the
capital.

Beers of Paris

In Paris, which the small wines are ordinarily very common and beers have comparatively high prices, beer
constitutes a luxury drink generally consumed in the summer; and as the beers
brewed there are not generally much aged, they are prepared in this season as
needed.

Although in the capital, beer can be considered as a luxury
beverage, its production has nonetheless acquired significant importance since,
despite the importation of foreign beers, 130 to 140 thousand hectoliters of
beer are brewed there annually, consisting primarily of brown beer and strong
white beer. The proportions of table beer or small beer are not very
considerable and are of an entirely inferior quality.

Brown Beers of Paris

In Paris, for several years, no fewer than eight to ten
varieties of brown beer are brewed, among which are the ones called Lyon,
Strasbourg, and Lille beer as well as ale, porter, and Bavarian beer.  The latter of which have not yet been
imitated or have been imitated in such an imperfect manner that I do not
believe it necessary to speak of the processes used to prepare them. I will
limit myself here to describing the production of the brown beers of Paris,
properly speaking: March Beer, Ordinary Double Brown Beer, and Table Beer which
are brewed in the capital.  Since all
these varieties of beers are prepared in roughly the
same manner, I will describe their production together under the general
denomination of Brown Beers of Paris, taking care to indicate the differences
which exist both in their nature and composition and in their preparation.

The March Beer that is brewed in Paris does not differ
generally from the Ordinary Double Brown Beer that is prepared in the same
city, in that it is generally a little stronger and more heavily hopped and is
brewed in winter or early spring rather than in all seasons like most ordinary
brown that ferments for two or three weeks before being delivered to retailers
whereas proper Paris March Beer is not consumed for at least four to six
months.  This last is then a type of
Stock Beer that most Parisian brewers mature in large vats or casks until it is
delivered for consumption.

Chapter 3. Belgian and Dutch Beer.

Chapter 4. Barley beer of Germany and other Nothern European Countries.

Second Category. — BIERES FROMENTACÉES.

Chapter 5. Belgian [?] Beer.

Chapter 6. German and Russian [?] Beer,

Chapter 7. Corn and Rice Beer.

Chapter 8. [Fecule] and Potato Beer.

Chapter 9. Beet, Carrot, and Jerusalem Artichoke Beer.

Part Three. — EXPOSÉ COMPARATIF Des différeNTS SYSTÈMES DE BRASSERIES , des diverses MÉTHODES DE FABRICATION et des
principALES LOIS qui régissent CETTE INDUSTRIE DANS LES PAYS LES PLUS RENOMMÉs
pour leurs BIÈRES .

Chapter 1. Comparison of different Brewery Systems.

Chapter 2. Comparison of different methods of brewing.

Chapter 3. Influence of location and [expositions] on the nature and
quality of beer.

Chapter 4. RÉSUMÉ DES LÉGISLATIONS QUI RÉGISSENT LES BRASSERIES ET LA
FABRICATION DES BIÈRES EN ANGLETERRE , EN BAVIÈRE , EN
FRANCE , DANS LE GRAND – DUCHÉ DE BADE, EN BELGIQUE ET EN HOLLANDE

Chapter 5. DE L'INFLUENCE DES LÉGISLATIONS SUR LA QUALITÉ DES BIÈRES ET LES
PROGRÈS DE CETTE INDUSTRIE

[1] M.
Rohart , ainsi que d'autres auteurs , contestent aux bières , en général ,
toute vertu nutritive . Ces auteurs ignorent sans doute que certaines bières
renferment jusqu'à 10 et 12 p. % de leur poids en matières extractives , aussi
riches que les grains eux -mêmes en matières azotécs , comme on le verra au
sujet des bières de Diest et de Louvain.

[2]
Les sirops de fécule sont tellement employés dans plusieurs départements
français , que M. Robart , dans son traité , leur a donné le nom de manne
des brasseurs , tout en ayant l'air de réprouver leur emploi.